![]() Hopefully Currie will keep some extra parts on hand for contingencies like this in the future so that IZIP owners won't have to keep their bikes in the garage while they wait months for a single replacement part. I would definitely consider this a sub-par experience on my end, however, in IZIP's defense, they apparently haven't been able to get parts from their suppliers due to the months-long west coast port strike by the International Longshore and Warehouse Union that recently ended, but that has still managed to delay shipments considerably. I called the IZIP Store in Santa Monica and they said they would order the part and email me in a week when the part came in, but it's been weeks and they haven't replied, which is bizarre. ![]() A month after initially inquiring, they offered me a *USED* 2015 E3 Dash derailleur hanger (they say it's good as new, though) and admitted that they didn't have any extras in stock. ![]() If I can help with additional info or images, please let me know.Just an update: I emailed IZIP and they took a long, long time to respond to my email, and they said they'd look into it. ![]() For what it’s worth, I’ve been running this way for 900+ miles and the hydraulics are more than sufficient to stop the bike with the motor running, although the pedal assist cuts out as soon as I stop pedaling. Yes, I’m aware that some people feel that it’s a bad idea to run without cutoffs, but I’m not here to debate that. My question: is there a way to either disable the brake cutoff feature, or make the controller see what it wants to see with the sensors removed (like adding the correct resistor to a car when an airbag is removed in a track car)? We can upgrade these from 417 Wh to 504 Wh with our 10.5 Ah rebuild. Im currently running with the old levers zip tied to the cables in front of the handlebars, which looks dumb and is obviously not a proper solution. Heres the popular TranzX BL17 model battery thats used on iZip E3 Dash, E3 Peak, and E3 Sumo model bikes, along with the Raleigh Tekoa, Route, and Misceo, among others. The system obviously fails “open” to prevent the motor from running away. I also tried disconnecting the sensors where they plug into the controller altogether, but again, no dice. I know this works for other brands, but this setup seems to be more finicky. This has not worked, even when I took the magnets off the levers themselves, even recreating the air gap. Ive tried several variations on removing the sensors from the levers and attaching them with magnets and zip ties so the bike controller is happy and thinks they are in the closed position. IZIP E3 Dash Electric Bike - for Parts or Repair (No Battery). I’ve already switched to Shimano hydraulic disc brakes, as the mechanical discs it came with were totally insufficient for a fully loaded commuter with panniers. Hello, I picked up a used, non-operational iZip E3 Dash, the price and the challenge to get it back on the road were too great to resist :wink: I have been down this road before, and thanks to all the amazing advice, tips and tricks I have received on this forum in the past, I at least knew. Looking for specific knowledge on how to disable the brake lever cutoff function for my Diamondback Trace exc /iZip E3 Dash commuting bike.
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